Tuesday, December 29, 2020

Piparkoogid (Estonian Gingersnaps, literally "Pepper Cakes")

These are a traditional part of the Estonian Christmas celebration. They are very thin, crispy, and—depending who is making them—delicious or deliberately awful. (Some Estonians like to make these cookies particularly sharp, almost inedibly so, to commemorate the bitterness of their years in captivity.)

VERSION #1 (from Estonian Tastes and Traditions by Karin Annus Karner)

1 C. sugar
1/4 C. molasses
2 tsp. ground cinnamon
2 tsp. ground cloves
2 tsp. ground nutmeg
1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
2 sticks butter
4 C. flour
1 tsp. baking soda
sprinkles or sliced almonds (opt.)
Yes, there's no ginger in these gingersnaps.

1) Combine the first five ingredients with 1/3 C. water in a small saucepan and simmer over medium heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture boils.
2) Remove from heat, add the butter and pepper, and stir until completely melted.
3) Cool to room temperature.
4) Gradually stir in the flour and baking soda until smooth.
5) Turn dough out onto a lightly floured board and knead a few times until smooth and all of the flour is well incorporated.
6) Wrap the dough in waxed paper and chill for at least 45 minutes (or up to several days or weeks).
7) When ready to bake, preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
8) Divide the dough into four or eight pieces.
9) Roll out one piece at a time to 1/8-in. thickness (or thinner, if you dare).
10) Cut into shapes with cookie cutters and place one inch apart on ungreased baking sheets.
11) Decorate with sprinkles or slices almonds, if desired.
12) Bake for 6-8 minutes or until slightly brown and slightly firm to the touch.
13) Cool on the baking sheet for 1 minute, then carefully transfer the cookies on wire racks using a thin metal spatula and cool completely.
NOTE: These keep well in an airtight container for about 2 months.


VERSION #2 (from Eesti Kook, Estonian Cooking by Lia Virkus and Harri Ilves)

2 sticks plus 2 Tbsp. margarine (250 g)
1 C. sugar
1 C. dark malt
2 tsp. ground cloves
2 tsp. cinnamon
1/2 tsp. ground ginger
2 tsp. cocoa powder
2 eggs
1 tsp. salt
5 C. flour
ICING (opt): 1 egg white, 2 C. icing sugar, a few drops of lemon juice

1) Mix margarine, sugar, spices, and malt in a saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring constantly.
2) Remove from heat and cool.
3) Whip with electric mixer until fluffy.
4) Add eggs one at a time and continue to mix.
NOTE: If you prefer crispy gingerbread cookies, mix the dough as little as possible.
5) Wrap dough into plastic wrap and refrigerate, at least until the next day but up to two weeks.
6) When ready to cut cookies out and bake, preheat oven to 350 degrees.
7) Roll 1/3 of dough on lightly floured surface until thin, then cut cookies out with cookie cutters.
8) Bake for 6-8 minutes.
9) To make optional icing, combine all ingredients. Beat with electric mixer and use immediately.
10) Decorate cookies with icing or colored granulated sugar.

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